Lights, control lights and other questions.

[dostawca]

Hello,
I've bought tdr125r month ago. My first bike
I've already changed the sprockets, chain, front pads and fork seals(this plastic cover on brake caliper is pain in the A$$ to take off or maybe I just don't know how to do it...).
Have anyone changed front lights on some other? Mine chrome is peeling off and at night it is really bad. Changing bulb won't help as it has nothing to reflect from.
Full beam
Low beam is on lens so it is longer than full beam light.
I was thinking about hella 90mm front lights like in buses. Maybe bmw e30 fit?
Other question is: when in neutral, oil lamp is on too and fuel res is blinking. Is it normal? When putting in gear all is gone.
My indicators are gone somewhere not blinking. Have to check it.
It was imported from Swiss and i guess it is locked. It can go up to 110km/h and max revs 10k rpm but not anything sensational about acceleration.
Does anyone have any manual for it? I've found parts catalog over here, but manual would be usefull. Unfortunately japanese tdr has different instrument cluster so not helpfull.
Cheers!

[schubsi]

Hi Pawel...

front lights on some other? Mine chrome is peeling off

In your position I would search for alternate headlights at bike-parts-yam.com
Very often parts are used in more than one bike, perhaps there is another bike which has the same, so you can search for it on used-parts-markets...

and fuel res is blinking.

There is some very big bug in your harness (cable tree), you should fix that...

oil lamp is on too

standard --> to check if the bulb is ok and it is able to warn you if 2stroke oil is low...

It can go up to 110km/h and max revs 10k rpm but not anything sensational about acceleration.

Perhaps the engine is not in good condition...
10k rpm is max for this engine (red zone at tacho)
There are some original reduced bikes 9PS/7kW, perhaps this is the reason for non sensational

-==[Schubsi]==-

[dostawca]

Hello,
new season is comming so I have to check up my bike as I was busy in winter with making LKW licence.
I worked out my lights before end of last season. Changed it to LEDs

42059103_2070345576323542_4438200585556066304_n.jpg (82.25 KiB) 11489 mal betrachtet

Had to make some measures and grind a lot of material but it fitted very well. I glued it on car windshield glue.

41955034_2070345356323564_5188942915933569024_n.jpg (45.78 KiB) 11489 mal betrachtet

42045363_2070345436323556_2681849752252841984_n.jpg (50.03 KiB) 11489 mal betrachtet

I've fitted new tyres this week, I hope it will be better in wet conditions, while balancing it showed me that I need to change rear wheel bearings.
Front:

54350179_2332277133463717_1188993629255892992_n.jpg (59.5 KiB) 11489 mal betrachtet

Rear:

54798449_2332277006797063_1204513875832078336_n.jpg (57.56 KiB) 11489 mal betrachtet

I'm also taking the carb apart as it wouldn't start if it was standing more than a week, and it was choking at around 5-6k rpm while riding.

54520199_2332277080130389_3969314904157978624_n.jpg (69.8 KiB) 11489 mal betrachtet

I hope I'll manage to make it more fuel efficient as it was mostly doing 7l/100km.

[schubsi]

Hello Pawel,

Very, very nice work, unfortunately, such a conversion to LED in Germany is not allowed, the authorities (TÜV) check that very carefully.

Thank you for your pictures and that you minimized the size of the pics very well, so you get a from me

I hope I'll manage to make it more fuel efficient as it was mostly doing 7l/100km.

2stroke engines need more fuel than 4strokes, but they are more effective and more funny. You will never get a CHEAP 2stroke
But 7 litre per 100 km is too much indeed!
My TDR 125 5AN (4FU nikasil cylinder) consumes ~ 4.5 l/100km @ 23hp mode (sometimes 4.2 l othertimes 4.8 l) while riding in a civilized way. In race mode perhaps it will need 7l too...

Your 3MB cylinder or the piston may be worn, on low power you have to give more fuel to get the same acceleration. Your idea to check the carburator is good, cleaning and restoring may rise up the power.

Good luck!

-==[Schubsi]==-

[432202]

fuel res is blinking

A fuel res indicator is something I really miss on my 5AE. It happened twice that I came to a stop while driving on the motorway when I was not quick enough to switch to reserve

[dostawca]

Fuel res is for oil tank as I imagine. No light for fuel.
I know about TUV well, as I remember you can't even change tyre size to another one which isn't mentioned in car id.
And this is kind of funny to me, as I've recently picked up a G-wagen from GfG tuning shop in germany, they installed portals to original axles. It looks like they did it on car, welds look s#it and it is TUV approved...

Back to the bike.
I was pissed of after first ride of this season as carb isn't set up properly and it has fuel overflowing on idle making it stall. Hard to start too.

IMG_20190409_133824.jpg (68.69 KiB) 10777 mal betrachtet

Also front fork stated leaking oil. I changed oil seals in october last year...

IMG_20190409_144516.jpg (172.28 KiB) 10777 mal betrachtet

Did it again 2 days ago, hope it will be ok.
Changed dust seals too and installed fork covers and new mud flap, as mine was loose(broken ears)

[schubsi]

Hey Pawel...

I was pissed of after first ride of this season as carb isn't set up properly and it has fuel overflowing on idle making it stall. Hard to start too

I had this problem every year after winter break: The floating needle valve (hope its the correct word) inside carb is stuck so fuel has free way to go into the chamber and fload it. Now I use "Profi Fuel Max" to prevent dirtyness inside the carb.

Your spark plug does not look very fine, the mass electrode (anode) looks like it had contact with the piston?

#oil seals at front fork
Please do not use the very cheap seals, very often you do the repair job twice or more...
I have no recommendation for parts, don't know where you can buy better one's.

regards!

-==[Schubsi]==-

[dostawca]

I did ride it yesteday, first time after carb resetting and its great, it should go easier on fuel too.
I changed fuel level in carb to be a bit lower, also changed throttle needle position from middle 3rd to second from top.
Bike finally accelerates from low revs and feels like it has twice the power under 7,5k rpm. Top end changed only a little but it is ok.
I don't have to downshift so much it just go from there.

This time I used AllBalls seals, I think last time I did it was Athena.